Pocket belt tutorial and PDF pattern

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I designed this pocket belt because I don’t like to carry things (except my kids of course!). I don’t like to carry things in my hands, or in a bag over my shoulder, no matter how small and portable. I would take it off in the car, and forget it until I had just rung up a car full of groceries and realized I didn’t have my wallet.  Most of my clothes have pockets, which is great, until I forget to switch items when I changed clothes. So, I wanted something I could keep my essentials in, wallet, keys, phone, lip balm, etc, but I also wanted it to look GOOD. So my mission to put the “Sexy” back in “Fanny Pack” was created, and this piece is the result.  The photo tutorial is a companion to the pattern, and will walk you thru the construction.

The pattern includes sizing for belts starting at 31″, and goes up to 47″. It can be purchased directly here, in my Etsy shop:  Pocket Belt PDF Pattern instant download

Don’t have an Etsy account? Purchase it here, and I’ll email it to you within 24 hours (but usually much quicker than that): 

 Not crafty? Completed belts with one-of-a-kind artwork are available in my Etsy shop, or feel free to contact me about a custom order if you don’t see exactly what you want. 

PLEASE NOTE: Pattern is for PERSONAL USE ONLY.   It took me a loooong time to work out the design, and even longer to digitize it. PLEASE do not copy the pattern to pass along to others, or to sell. I keep my patterns fairly priced, and the sale of them puts food on my family’s table, a roof over our heads, and even lets us have a little adventure every now and then. DO feel free to sell finished belts for small scale production,  and a nod to my shop would be appreciated. Thanks, and happy crafting!



Layout for 42/44″ wide fabric. The selvage is at the left, and the fold is at the right.

Pattern layout 44


Layout for 58//60″ wide fabric. The selvage is at the right, and the fold is at the left.

Pattern layout 60


Now that everything is cut out, you should have:

Two back belt pieces

Four front belt pieces

Two pocket flaps

Four pocket pieces

Two side gussets


Lining Layout (1/3 yard at 42/44″ wide, all sizes):


Interfacing layout (20″ wide), fold on bottom:

Also cut 2 rectangle, 3.5″ wide by 5″ long, then round the corners on one of the short ends, and two interfacing pieces for the gussets, 2.5″ wide by 20″ long.

After cutting, you will have:

2 pocket flaps

4 pockets

2 belt fronts

1 belt back


Once everything is cut out, fuse the interfacing to the wrong side of your main fabric. When you’re done, you’ll have this:


*I only had a scrap of the red and yellow quilter’s cotton that I wanted to use for the lining, so I used it for the pocket flaps, and used a plain white muslin for the lining of the pocket pieces and gussets. I don’t want you looking for the gorgeous gold used in the lining pattern layout photo 😉


Next, pin the ends of your gussets right sides together, and sew across with a 1/2″ seam allowance.






Turn right side out, press, lining up the long edges, then pin. Topstitch the short edges close to the ends, and baste along the long sides close to the edges (basting stitches are shown in blue):






Pin the pocket flap linings to the pocket flaps, right sides together. Leaving the top open, sew along the edges with a 3/8″ seam allowance. Clip the curves, snip off the point, and clip a notch out of each corner:




Turn the pocket flaps right side out, and gently push out the seams with a knitting needle, crochet hook, chopstick, etc. then press flat. Top stitch around close to the edge (it’s ok if you sew the top shut now)




Pin the pocket flaps, right sides together, to two of the pocket pieces (I entertained the notion of having the lining out on my finished piece, but ended up deciding against it for simplicity’s sake, but if you’d like to have your lining showing on your final pockets, just pin them lining side down). Baste close to top edge.




Pin pocket linings to pockets, the sew the top edges with a 3/8″ seam allowance. (The pocket flaps will be sandwiched in between the layers on two of the pieces; you can see them showing thru on the bottom two).





Remove pins, and flip linings over to back sides. Press, and pin at corners. Top stitch along tops of pockets, and baste close to edges around the sides and bottoms of each pocket piece. (Basting stitches shown in light colored thread).



Pin the two back belt pieces together, right sides together, making sure everything lines up. Stitch along top and bottom edges with a 3/8″ seam allowance, leaving ends open. Remove pins, snip off the point at the bottom, and clip curves:

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Turn right side out, using a knitting needle etc. to push out seams, and *very* gently push out the point. Press, then top stitch close to edges (stitching on the  inside of the belt is shown in gold, for contrast):




Using the dots on the pattern, mark two of your front pieces for snap placement. One piece will have 4 male snaps, and the other 6 female snaps. Please note, these pieces look the SAME. If you are NOT using pearl/decorative snaps, you should put the male snaps in now so that the rings do not show at the front.


Pin front belt pieces right sides together. Clip curves, turn right side out, then use your knitting needle (etc) to gently push the seams out. Press, then topstitch close to edges.


Count out 6 pearl snaps with male ends, and six pairs of female snaps and prongs. Using your marks, attach the snaps per manufacturers instructions, with one pearl snap with a male end on each pocket flap, positioned near the point. Please notice now, the front belt pieces are mirror images of each other. The top piece has the remaining 4 pearl snaps, with the male ends facing downwards. The bottom piece has 6 female snaps facing upwards.

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Fold gussets and pocket pieces in half, and iron to mark centers. Pin gussets to front pocket pieces (the ones without flaps) at the top ends and bottom center, then work your way around the sides and corners.

Again, if you want flat pockets, skip these steps, and sew the pocket fronts directly to the pocket backs.




Sew gussets to pocket fronts with a 3/8″ seam allowance, then finish raw edges (I use a serger, but if you don’t have one, you can zig-zag stitch close to the raw edges to keep them from fraying). When finished, you’ll have two of these:





Working with the back pocket pieces, place them wrong sides down, with the pocket flaps pointing out. On the right pocket, pin the front belt piece with the male snaps to the inner edge (pearl side up), just below where you can feel the seam allowance on the inside of the pockets.

Pin the other front belt piece to the inner edge of the left pocket, just below the seam allowances, female snap side up. Stitch in place, close to the edge, then  remove pins.



Lay your pockets down the same way again, and place the back of the belt on top of them, with the *inside* of the belt down (if you haven’t put any artwork on your belt, then this won’t matter. If you have put artwork on, it should be facing up here). Pin at edges, just below the seam allowance inside the pockets again, and stitch in place, close to edges, then remove pins.


Fold one half of the belt up out of the way, so the back of the belt lays flat in the center across the outside of one pocket and the flap. Pin one pocket front piece on, right sides together. Start again by pinning the top edges and centers, then working your way around. Stitch along edges with a 3/8″ seam allowance. Remove pins, then finish seams. Turn the pocket right side out, then repeat with the other pocket.

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Center pocket front over pocket back, then fold down the flap squarely along the top of the pocket. Press down on the snap HARD to leave an indentation on the front of the pocket to mark where to put the female snap piece. Repeat on the other pocket.

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Insert a block of wood into the pockets, and attach the female snap pieces at mark.



Congratulations! You’ve just completed your pocket belt! 🙂 Snap this beauty on, and go have yourself a hands-free adventure!

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